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Not used to 3-d, please help!
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* January 07, 2019, 04:15:06 AM
Hi,

I need some help regarding a 3-d drawing, to get it ready to save to a file suitable for 3-d printing. It is a sailing vessel's winch drum, which I originally designed in many parts, to be assembled with photo etched brass and laser cut plywood. However, because the kit I am designing is aimed at beginners, I felt it was too complicated.

I am trying to draw it in 3-d, but have a problem with the octagonal sides, as they are tapered. Each edge should be a single line, and not have a 'V' shape between each one. How can I make this assembly as one, so it can be 3-d printed as a one piece solid?

I have uploaded the file, plus a 2-d drawing to show what it should look like.

Thank you,

Chris

(TC 21.1 64 bit Professional)

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* January 07, 2019, 05:23:45 AM
#1
Chris.   the taper shapes will lend themselves very well to Lofting (or prism).

I don't know what material they are going to be 3d printed in,  (plastic / metal).

Because the existing 8 sided parts have holes, I would not bother trying to set the thickness to '0' to use the existing octagons. I would use the 2D polygon tool to add octagons of the required size,  then loft between each pair of them, and then cut out the holes.   If you wished to save a bit of material in the printing stage, one could always shell the lofts by a small amount but if using plastic, I would not bother at that size because adjusting the infill in the slicing software will take case of that.
 
It does mean  re-drawing some bits, like the boxes to cut out the holes,  but should not take long.

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* January 07, 2019, 05:37:49 AM
#2
Chris.   the taper shapes will lend themselves very well to Lofting (or prism).

I don't know what material they are going to be 3d printed in,  (plastic / metal).

Because the existing 8 sided parts have holes, I would not bother trying to set the thickness to '0' to use the existing octagons. I would use the 2D polygon tool to add octagons of the required size,  then loft between each pair of them, and then cut out the holes.   If you wished to save a bit of material in the printing stage, one could always shell the lofts by a small amount but if using plastic, I would not bother at that size because adjusting the infill in the slicing software will take case of that.
 
It does mean  re-drawing some bits, like the boxes to cut out the holes,  but should not take long.

Thank you Andy,

I will try as you suggest. One would think that it is a very simple object, but to me, it is not!

I have attached another file containing 2 parts, hopefully ready for 3-d printing, do these look OK?

Cheers,

Chris

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* January 07, 2019, 06:40:05 AM
#3
I assume the two anchor blades are supposed to be separate, (they are not Boolean added),  and if so they will require converting to, say, stl files as separate objects. 

The roller is all separate parts, and if it should be one object,  I would Boolean add all the parts before converting to stl (or whatever format).  whilst selecting all the parts before saving as stl, can automatically join everything.  personally I don't rely on the save filter, I like to check everything joins correctly before saving as stl.

Tough one to comment really as it depends on now it is being printed,  Home use, using extruded plastic / resin (Home or some commercial).  or layer sintering (sls) using commercial printers.   


 

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* January 07, 2019, 05:24:30 PM
#4
Hi Andy,

Thank you for that valuable information. The anchor is all one part, and will eventually be cast in white metal. I used the 3-d Boolean add and they are now all one part.

I shall get the file sent off and see what they come out like..

Thank you again, you really have been a great help!

Regarding other fittings, such as decoration and figurehead designs, I am assuming TV would not be able to do something like the figurehead in the attached picture?

ETA - I have also attached a picture of one of my finished designs of HMS Victory (64th scale, 1.6 metres long) - Everything on this model prototype was designed all in TC!
« Last Edit: January 07, 2019, 05:28:59 PM by chriswatton »

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* January 07, 2019, 06:21:38 PM
#5
" I have also attached a picture of one of my finished designs of HMS Victory (64th scale, 1.6 metres long) - Everything on this model prototype was designed all in TC!"

Chris, that is simply fantastic.

Henry H

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January 07, 2019, 06:59:19 PM
#6
ETA - I have also attached a picture of one of my finished designs of HMS Victory (64th scale, 1.6 metres long) - Everything on this model prototype was designed all in TC!

You did the horse heads and the people in TurboCAD?  That is absolutely amazing work.

Even if not, the rest of the ship's design is stellar.


Jeff

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TC Pro Platinum 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016 & 2015 (all with LightWorks & RedSDK) & V21
System: i7-5820K @ 3.30GHz, ASRock X99 Extreme4, 16GB DDR4-2133 RAM, Gigabyte GTX 970, Samsung NVMe SSD 950 (256GB), Windows 7 Pro (64-bit) SP1


* January 08, 2019, 02:31:28 AM
#7
Wow, Terrific job on the Victory Chris.

With regards the figurehead.  Whilst I won't say it's 'impossible' in TC.  TC is not the right program for that sort of detail,  it really needs a sculpting program.  Of the free programs, things like Blender or Sculptris may be able to do it, but I'm not a 3D sculptor, so I have very limited knowledge of them.  Whether free or paid there will probably be a steep learning curve.


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* January 08, 2019, 03:11:47 AM
#8
Cheers guys - I didn't do the figurehead on that original (built in 1756) model of Royal George. That is what I need to learn how to do with the appropriate program. That figurehead is quite extreme, which is why I use it as an example - I figure if I can get that sorted, anything else would be very easy.

I have been quoted around £4-6 thousand Pounds to have that figurehead drawn in 3-d and laser printed - which is way too much.

All the stern decoration on the pics of Victory is designed using photo-etching - but for earlier period ships like the Royal George, the decoration is a lot 'fuller', and I could not get away with PE parts,

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January 08, 2019, 03:31:03 AM
#9
That figurehead is quite extreme, which is why I use it as an example - I figure if I can get that sorted, anything else would be very easy.

I have been quoted around £4-6 thousand Pounds to have that figurehead drawn in 3-d and laser printed - which is way too much.

You can get a 3D Scanner with depth resolution well below 1mm for US$3400, and you can take it with you to remote locations.  If you want to scan on your desktop, you can get the same resolution in the US$2,400 range.


Jeff

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TC Pro Platinum 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016 & 2015 (all with LightWorks & RedSDK) & V21
System: i7-5820K @ 3.30GHz, ASRock X99 Extreme4, 16GB DDR4-2133 RAM, Gigabyte GTX 970, Samsung NVMe SSD 950 (256GB), Windows 7 Pro (64-bit) SP1